After several trips to the city of the true north in the last year, there is one thing TSR can say with confidence: Edinburgh is a city of cafe lovers.
With the type of wind that makes wearing a skirt practically impossible, it is no wonder that the folk here quickly seek shelter in the nearest tea room or cafe.
But when you have the luxury of time and lighter winds, how do you choose from this pick ‘n mix collection? TSR has yet to sample them all (that would require a good portion of one’s time), but here are some personal favourites she has taken to for a writing or book-reading spot.
Note: due to high demand, often small spaces in old buildings and an abundance of students “studying”, you’ll find many a cafe is stuffed by lunchtime. Top tip: an early to mid-morning spot tends to give you more wiggle room in finding a seat. Casually “hanging around” someone whose coffee cup is empty is also highly recommended, so you can pounce on the table once their bottom has vacated their seat.
Söderberg (Meadows)
This Swedish joint may not sell meatballs, but it does sell the most delicious baked goods. Its pièce de résistance being the cardamon bun. Don’t be suspicious of the cardamon, it works. Trust TSR.
It has several spots across the city, but this is its biggest and is conveniently located next to the Meadows. This lovely expanse of grassland, complete with many a pup being walked, is perfect to take your takeaway tea and bun if the aforementioned students have taken up every seat in the house (it’s also close to the university).
Classic Swedish savoury treats are also on offer, such as läxrora, its take on the smoked salmon open sandwich. Enjoy in a window seat and people watch, feeling as cool as a Swede in this contemporary but cosy cafe.
Fortuna (Queen Street)
Take a step off the main thoroughfare of Princes Street and due north you’ll find a little hidden gem. Fortuna could easily get missed, but fortunate for TSR, she was staying nearby, in need of some sustenance and with Google Maps at hand, voila.
Fortuna tends to be quieter due to its off-the-main-beat location, so it is handy if you’re looking for a Saturday bite. It’s perfect for early risers, with a good breakfast offering from 8.30am – just make sure you’re not a late luncher, it closes at 3pm.
The avocado on toast, though cliche, is delicious – with extra toppings like feta and even chives for the fancy ones amongst you. Everything from tuna toasties to granola also feature here.
It’s cute, small and very Edinburgh. The food fresh and window seats for more people watching. Worth a look in.
Snax Cafe (W Register St)
TSR could be committing Scottish treason by letting this one out the bag. Snax is a local haunt, especially for students in need of cheap, no-nonsense hangover cures. TSR only knows it due to being in-the-know from a Scottish native. It’s hidden away, but close to Waverley Station, so right in the heart of the bustle.
Think an all-day breakfast for £4.50 or a haggis bap for £2.40 and you catch the drift here. It’s all good, old-school greasy spoon fare – and delicious.
Just don’t expect a seat here, you order from a hatch outside – but that’s all part of the Snax experience. The choice is to walk and munch or do as TSR did and quick walk yourself up Calton Hill and dine on your haggis bap there, taking in the view of the city as an extra reward.
Wellington Coffee (George Street)
The tiniest of TSR’s top picks, this spot takes you down to basement level, into a cosy cafe which is popular – meaning, there could be a queue and therefore inadequate room to swing a cat. But it is worth the trip for its not-too-sweet hot chocolate and its oh-so-sweet cakes and scones. There’s no savoury offerings here, but who needs that when the carrot cake provides one of your five a day.
There are some seats inside if you’re lucky to bag one and plenty outside on a sunny day. The staff are smiley and friendly too, which always adds extra points.
Being in the hub of New Town, it’s super convenient, but naturally busy. So sharpen those elbows or just take to go and wander down to Princes Gardens.
Waterstones (Princes Street) and Starbucks (Princes Street)
A little independent is always preferable in TSR’s eyes, but needs must on occasion – and there are no two better options than Waterstones cafe and Starbucks on Princes Street which both command views over Old Town and its star attraction, Edinburgh Castle.
There are perches aplenty in both, but they still get busy – so head there earlier rather than later for your best chance to nab a spot.
The culinary delights are less to be desired than the other options on show here (walk away from the salmon bagel in Waterstones), so come here for a coffee and the sights – then head out for some good grub.
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